There are few travel experiences that leave me in awe and fill me with gratitude quite like my trip to Turkey. Somehow my first 48 hours along the Turkish coastline left me inspired, appreciative, and genuinely happy. Even long after my trip, I still reminisce on these moments, feeling a greater appreciation for this beautiful world and all the captivating places it has to offer.
After being completely enamoured by this remarkable destination, I decided I wanted to preserve these memories as best as I could, which is when I began writing this article.
This post was designed to give readers a view from my lens as I explored this stretch of coast with a good friend of mine for the very first time.
Hope you enjoy xx.
Kas, Turkey
Unapologetically distinct from its more recognizable neighbors, Kas is a humble Mediterranean town that effortlessly blends old with new. What once was a sleepy fishing village, has now become one of the Turkish Riveria’s most prized possessions. The summer months awaken this city and breathe life back in the worn, cobblestoned streets. As the days grow longer and the temperatures begin to peak, locals from all over the country flock to this coastal town, longing for a calming oasis to retreat to for the weekend.
Right before descending into Kas, visitors are given a glimpse of distant islands peppering the horizon, a towering seaside mosque with two minarets jutting into the sky, and tattered terracotta-colored roofs layering the rugged landscape like stacked puzzle pieces. When standing in the heart of the town, visitors gain a new perspective as the stunted buildings leave open views for the evergreen mountains above. It’s the rugged paradise that many adventurers seek but few ever witness.
Draped with overgrown orange and fuchsia bougainvillea, the weathered storefronts welcome visitors with glistening silver jewelry, handmade Lycian tapestries and rugs, and contemporary beach attire for all types of vacationers. Surrounding these storefronts are traditional Turkish homes with wooden balconies, showcasing the local architecture that has been carefully preserved from generation to generation.
At the head of the Kas Bazaar sits a 4th-century ruin, Kral Mezarı (King’s Tomb), marking one of the main walkways of the city. This symbolic figure reminds visitors of the city’s ancient pastime while remaining unimposing to the modern-day hustle and bustle.
The surrounding topography has formed small, sun-soaked coves. After just a single visit to Kaputas Beach or Hidayet Bay Beach, it is easy to see first-hand how the region earned its nickname, The turquoise coast. The main road in this area feels as though it was made for beach-hopping, providing makeshift trails out of carved rock that guide visitors directly to the sea.
As night falls upon the town, a new ambiance envelops every corner of Kas, creating an atmosphere that is inviting, blissful, and subtly subdued. Warm, faint light spreads from the open windows and doors of crowded restaurants and bars, while passerbyers sneak a peek at jubilant diners conversing with loved ones, not a worry in the world. The smell of fried seafood perfumes the streets. It’s officially dinner time in the city of Kas.
Unbothered street cats welcome guests outside Demetri’s, a local restaurant in the heart of town. A staccato melody of restaurant-goers sweeps through the al fresco dining area covered with an awning of grape vines. The house special is grilled octopus which is commonly washed down with a bottle of local Turkish wine or Raki, a distilled spirit made of grapes and aniseed.
To accompany the fresh catch of the day, diners choose from a variety of small mezze dishes. Refreshing yogurt cucumber dips, mackerel filets in spiced olive oil, briny olives, and sauteed vegetables in a garlicky tomato sauce are a few of many small plates paraded from table to table.
As restaurants begin to cut off the dinner service, the full moon welcomes Turkish travelers into the streets. Bar staff eagerly wait with open doors to mix cocktails and pour beers to any passer-byer. Younger crowds belly up to the bar, ready to enjoy the vibrant atmosphere that the local watering hole provides.
A local band is already center stage at Echo Bar, playing all the classic American songs that you’d find in any cover band’s repertoire. The intimate cave bar provides the perfect acoustics for the setting. As the night progresses and the music grows louder, the crowd also matches the energy. It’s the perfect way to end a balmy July night in Turkey.
Beach Hopping Along the Turkish Riviera
It’s a new day in the city of Kas. As the morning ripens, the sun drenches the storefronts and casts a soft light on the deserted bars and storefronts. A morning like this begs for the beach, which is exactly how the day will be spent. Today’s itinerary includes beach hopping along the rugged and wild coast with an objective to find the most perfect cove this region has to offer.
Büyükçakıl Plajı
Rocky coves of all shapes and sizes line the coastal stretch. Rows of beach chairs at Büyükçakıl Plajı, one of the most popular beaches in the area, are completely empty in the early part of the morning. There are hand-painted signs along the walking path advertising the local restaurants, ensuring an ice-cold beer or refreshing Mojito is never too far out of reach.
Hidayet Koyu Plajı
While Büyükçakıl Plajı is more free-spirited in nature, Hidayet Koyu Plajı (Blanca Beach) offers more of a refined beauty. Atmospheric music and the sound of soft waves rolling on the shore drift together to form a harmonious backdrop. The renovated sun deck spans in a half moon along the shore, providing plenty of space for rows of uniform sunbeds and elegant cabanas.
Kaputas Beach
The turquoise jewel of the region is Kaputas Beach. Looking down into this strip of sand and sea is a view that leaves an imprint on all its witnesses. The contrast between the wall of white rock and the blue turquoise gradient from the water is captivating, no matter the angle at which it is viewed. Visitors climb down sandy concrete staircases constructed along the steep cliff, with a sweeping view of the stunning coastline just right ahead. Unlike other beaches in this area, the shore is made of soft, subtly white sand that sinks effortlessly below the toes with each passing step.
Kabak, Turkey
A few hour’s drive up the coast leads to Kabak, a small coastal village in Lycian, Turkey. Driving to this region is not for the faint of heart. As the clearly defined highways trail off and make their ascent, narrow, winding roads take their place. The path contorts to hug the side of the mountain, moving harmoniously with the natural shape of the land. Coastal shrubs morph into sea pine groves, only letting way to views of the Mediterranean Sea every so often.
Due to the ruggedness of the land, accommodations are remote. The native terrain still feels untouched and wild, captivating even the most seasoned of travelers. In the outskirts of town, there are pockets of eco-lodges, tree houses, homestays, glamping tents, and backpacker hostels, all surrounded by dense woodland and towering cliffs.
A dusty one-lane road leads to The Olive Garden Kabak, a natural retreat offering simple, wooden bungalows. A glassy infinity pool is tucked among several cabins, creating an illusion that the water and sky are one. Freddie, the proud owner of this modest oasis, is there to greet newcomers and do a walk-through of the property. Slabs of wood serve as shelving for colorful books, artwork, and memorabilia from the region in a room that feels more like a living room rather than a lobby. Right outside the glass doors is the outdoor terrace with a few leftover diners lingering from the morning breakfast.
Beyond the wood railing opens up to sprawling views of the Kabak valley. Birds glide playfully along the cliff’s edge. Pine trees desperately cling to the vertical rock wall, sprouting in the different crooks and crannies of the rough terrain. It’s a scene so captivating it feels as though it might just fade into your imagination the second you close your eyes.
The unique landscape offers a plethora of activities, making it an idyllic location for both nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike. The Lycian Way, a 500 km trail that meanders through ancient cities, is just one of many paths scattered along the coastline.
Butterfly Valley
As the early morning sun begins to seep through the trees, Kabak Beach remains empty apart from a few awaiting water taxis. The journey by sea to Butterfly Valley is a brief 20 minutes. During the duration of the ride, the views become more rugged, preemptively displaying glimpses of the forthcoming cove.
The indentation of the mountains ahead cues that the valley is near. As the cliffs pull back and the sky and sea fill the space, the rugged mountains finally give way and reveal Butterfly Valley in all its glory.
Morning light illuminates the shore, brightening the already luminescent waters that glisten below in the boat’s wake. When standing on the shore, it feels as though you are on an island, untouched by humans and beautifully preserved throughout time — just as nature intended it to be.
A short trail along the valley floor shadowed by greenery and forest leads to a small waterfall, providing a cool retreat for those needing relief from the relentless sun that grows stronger as the day progresses.
Tucked above the forested hills sits Sifa Kafe, a local art and science center offering home-cooked Turkish meals to hungry travelers. Abraham, the local owner of the establishment, greets visitors with chilled watermelon juice with sweet basil picked straight from his garden.
Fresh goat milk yogurt, a garbanzo bean stew, and spiced pide bread from the village next door are on today’s lunch special. The overgrown grapevines serve as a canopy from the sun for the outdoor dining room. Beyond the vines, the sky and the sea meet, casting a blue haze across the expansive sky.
It’s the most idyllic way to end our first 48 hours along the Turquoise Coast.
While the journey continued for many days after, these first impressions left a mark on my memory. Scenes that felt too blissful and yet too astounding – were the exact moments that altered my perspective on Turkey, broadened my horizons, and established a sense of internal peace.
Because of this, these 48 hours along Turkey’s Turquoise Coast will always be moments I hold close to my heart and will cherish for a lifetime.
No Comments