Capturing the curiosity of both nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike, the Dolomites truly is the epitome of adventure. Unlike other iconic Italian destinations that are famed for its art, history, and quintessential charm, The Dolomites have an essence of its own – swapping bustling plazas and worn Roman ruins for rugged landscapes and raw beauty.
Nestled in the northeastern part of Italy, this mountain range stretches 125 miles long and showcases 18 different peaks. During the summer season, travellers from around the world flock to these pristine alps to experience some of Europe’s finest scenery. When the long summer days are replaced with cold, snowy nights, a new type of traveler is drawn to the area. This region’s mountains also offer idyllic conditions for snow sports of all types.
—
I found myself fully immersed in these picturesque alps while on a road trip with my parents this past summer. This was a trip that I had been wanting to do for years, which made it that much sweeter when I was able to experience it with the people that I know would appreciate it the most.
While this was definitely one of the most epic trips I have been on, I definitely would say that it also took a lot more planning and research compared to other hiking trips I’ve been on. To help anyone else who is looking to visit this heavenly corner of Italy, I have created this guide with all the information you need to get started.
With a little planning and preparation, you will easily be able to create a personalized itinerary for visiting this iconic mountain range yourself.
Below is a complete guide on how to plan a road trip through the Dolomites.
Where to Stay in the Dolomites
With so many charming villages and hillside towns, it can be hard knowing which ones to use as your home base when visiting the Dolomites in Italy. Before planning your trip, consider how you want to explore these mountains.
There are two main options, you can either drive from village to village and do day hikes from there or you can do the more rugged route and hike from hut to hut within the mountains themselves. Like most areas in the alps, hikers can stay in rustic refugios each night while trekking across peaks. While this version will definitely satisfy your thirst for adventure, it’s important to note that these accommodations offer the bare minimum: a place to sleep, shower, and eat.
If you prefer exploring the region by foot while still ending the day with a hot shower and comfortable bed at night, you may want to opt for staying in the villages. This allows you to have a nice balance of being close to nature while still staying in comfortable accommodations.
Another great option if you want to get off the beaten path is to stay in farm houses. Farm houses are a form of B&Bs that allow you to get a more local experience. With that in mind, this option books up quickly and can be hard to find. Be sure to book with plenty of time in advance.
You can also stay in luxurious hotels and spas throughout the region. These accommodations offer a full R&R experience while showcasing stunning views of the local landscapes. Whatever option you decide on, make sure to book far in advance as accommodations of all types fill up quickly, especially in peak seasons.
Below I’ve included a breakdown of our exact route to give you a better idea of how to plan your very own trip. For some background, my parents and I started in Milan and then drove to the Dolomites from there.
Recommended Towns to Stay in:
- Ortisei
- Cortina
- St. Magdalena
- Castelrotto
Day 1: Val di Funes
Our Accommodations: Hotel Klammwirt
We first started our day driving from Milan to Val di Funes. What should have been a 3-hour car ride, turned into a 5.5-hour journey due to all the traffic. By the time we arrived, we decided to do a quick exploration over to the famous Church of St. John to take in some of South Tyrol’s most stunning views.
Since we were taking it easy that night, we decided to have an early dinner at Restaurant Turmwirt, which turned out to be a stunning surprise. Nestled right next to a medieval church, hidden on the outskirts of a small mountain village, Restaurant Turmwirt was an enchanting spot with incredible local food. As we listened to the church bells ring every 15 minutes, we enjoyed homemade dumplings, pesto gnocchi, and wine from the valley below us. It was the perfect way to end our first day in these stunning mountains.
Day 2-3: Laion
Our Accommodations: Hotel Andechserhof & Mountain Sky
Day 2
We started our first full day in the Val di Funes to hike the Adolf Munkel trail. We ended up continuing our hike further than the standard loop and followed signs for Dusler Huttn. This rustic alpine restaurant was filled with life as we approached right in time for lunch. We ended up spending a few hours enjoying the afternoon over a couple hefeweizen beers, traditional dishes, and even got to listen to live folk music. Luckily for us (especially after a couple of beers), we were able to cut to a shorter trail to get back to the car.
From there, we headed to our next location, Laion, which is a small town in Bolzano. After exploring the area by foot, we had an early dinner and rested up for a busy day ahead.
Day 3
To start the day, we drove to an alpine town called Ortesi. We arrived at 9:30 in the morning and were able to get one of the last spots in the parking garage. From there, we took the gondola up to Seceda. Rising at 2500 meters, this stunning viewpoint is one of the most magical places in all of the Dolomites. Towering slabs of rock jut out of the ground, creating a dramatic scenery that can be viewed from all points of the valley.
*Quick tip: Once you get up to Seceda with the gondola, there are many trails that you can follow. Give yourself a few hours to explore the area by foot. For the perfect photo spot of Seceda, follow the trail that goes directly to the sharp pinnacles.
From there, we decided to extend our hike and continue on. At this point, there are a number of hikes ranging in difficulty that go off in every direction. Luckily if you aren’t too much of a planner (this was our case), you can depend on the trail signs that have the destination and estimated hiking time to decide your next path. We took an easy yet scenic trail to the Malga Pieralongia rifugio where we sat and enjoyed hot chocolate, coffee, and homemade apple strudel.
*Thoughts on the area: If you want to take full advantage of this region, I highly recommend staying in Ortesi. This quaint alpine town has plenty of restaurants and shops while also serving as the gateways to Seceda and Alpi di Suisi. Plus, there are a variety of restaurants right in the town’s charming center, making it the perfect home base for a few days in the alps. When booking your accommodations, make sure you are staying directly in town so you do not have to travel by car.
Day 4-5: Cortina
Our Accommodations: B&B Hotel Passo Tre Croci Cortina
Day 4:
The next morning, we packed up our bags and made our way to Cortina. The drive was only supposed to be two hours, but since we were traveling in high season, the roads were extra crowded, delaying us an extra hour or so.
By the time we arrived to Cortina, we decided to spend some time exploring the idyllic mountain town. The center of Cortina has lots of shops and restaurants, making it a great area to stay in for a few days. After exploring the town, we went over to Misurina to walk around the lake before heading back into Cortina to have dinner at II Vizietto di Cortina.
Day 5:
We started our morning hiking to Lake Sorapis. This 7.5 mile hike is one of the most popular trails in the Dolomites, and for good reason. As you make your ascent up, you have to climb makeshift stair cases while hanging on to metal chains during steep sections of the hike.
Once we arrived to the turquoise-colored lake, we headed straight to Rifugio Alfonso Vandelli and rewarded ourselves with a Dolomiti beer and Italian chocolate. After a little time relaxing in the sun, we slowly made our way to the real prize, Lake Sorapis. Tucked away at the base of the towering Dolomite mountains hides Lake Sorapis, a glowing turquoise lake that is so vibrant it illuminates the base of the stone mountains above. Although there were a lot of people, the lake was large enough that you could hike around to the other side to a flat beach which offered plenty of space to sit down and relax. After some time enjoying the views, we packed up our bags and made our journey back down the mountain.
*Quick Tip: We started our hike at 9am, which seemed to be the same start time as the 50 other hikers we saw in the beginning of the trail. If I were to do it again, I would have started at 8am (or earlier) to enjoy the hike stress-free and not have a full line of people waiting as you try to pass the sketchy areas with chains and ladders.
Since we were expecting rain in the coming days, we decided to do one more adventure to finish off our day. We drove an hour from Cortina to Pragser Wildsee, also known as Lake Braies. Now, this is by far the most famous spot in the Dolomites (thanks to social media). Known for its wooden row boats that calmly wade in the bright turquoise waters, this mountain lake paints one of the most scenic backdrops in the entire region. We came late afternoon and spent an hour or so hiking around the perimeter of the lake. Depending on how the sun hits the water, the colors change from a dull green to a vibrant turquoise color. By walking around the entire lake, we were able to see the water from all angles, giving us a deeper perspective of the area and its beauty. That night, we headed back into Misurina to dine at Quinz- Locanda Al Lago for a lakeside pizza night.
Day 6-7: Castelrotto
Our Accommodations: Hotel Garnì Savoy
Day 6:
Before heading to Castelrotto, we decided to drive through Cortina and do Cinque Torri to get in one more hike before a long car ride. We took the Seggiovie 5 Torri chairlift to get to the start of the trailhead. This easy trail weaved through a number of WWI bunkers and offered stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Before heading back down, we decided to have lunch at the Rifugio Scoiattoli, which was the best rifugio we ate at on the entire trip.
To get to Castelrotto, we had to drive on Gardena Pass, which is a high mountain road that snakes throughout the South Tyrol region. The weaving and winding roads displayed the most incredible views of the soaring mountains and endless pastures. This stretch was by far the most picturesque road we came across along our week trip in the Dolomites.
By the time we got to Castelrotto, we sat in the first plaza we found and enjoyed a few afternoon aperol spritzes. In the late afternoon, we jumped in the car and headed up to Alpi di Suisi to get a glimpse of what the following day would bring us. Typically, the roads to this famous alpine spot is closed to cars from 9 to 5pm. However, since we went later in the day, we were able to get up the mountain road without any troubles and see the area stress-free.
Day 7:
We spent the next day hiking throughout Alpi di Suisi, which was the most highly anticipated part of the trip. Let me just say, it did not disappoint. This region is famous for its rolling hills, rustic mountain huts, and stunning mountain views. As the largest pasture in Europe, this area offers a plethora of trails and activities to explore and pass your time.
On our first full day in Alpi di Suisi, we took the gondola up from Suisi Alma and did the Ortisei loop. We stopped at two different refugios, first to sample a local pancake-type of dessert and then later for fresh tomato pasta, wild mushroom polenta, and an elderberry spritz. With full bellies and sore feet, we headed back into town for an early night.
Day 8:
To gain a different perspective of Alpi di Suisi, we decided to get an early start to our morning and rent eBikes. Once we got up into the valley, there were many rental spots to choose from. We ended up spending several hours exploring the entire Alpi di Suisi. Since we were able to cover more ground compared to walking, we decided to go to the far end of the valley and explore as much as we could by bike. For me, this was one of the best activities we did all trip and was the perfect way to end our week in the alps.
Wrapping Up
The Dolomites exceeded my expectations, and then some. Waking up in these quaint alpine towns and getting to spend all day in the mountains was the perfect reset I needed to refocus and recharge.
And the best part about? Being able to spend some quality time with my parents. No matter where I am in this world, hiking and being in nature always brings me back to my younger days when I’d spend long weekends exploring the mountains with my mom and dad. Now after this trip, I am even more thankful that I was able to experience this incredible destination with these two!
No Comments